Monday, October 4, 2010

La Serenissima #3

Sunday in Venice. Only notable difference is that the cathedral isn’t open for tourists – worship only. And a few shops closed – presumably worshipping.


So where'd you leave my cloak?
Headed off to Murano this morning. Free water taxi courtesy of an inevitable arrangement between the hotel and a glass works on the island. Were taken over and met by a very personable young man called Ari. He is the fifth generation of his family in the factory. He works in the marketing and sales area because after they tried him at glass blowing for six weeks his grandfather decided that this would be a non-starter and moved him away from the practical side of the business. Well that’s the story anyway!

Got given the demonstration with personal commentary as one of the masters knocked out a plate and a horse! It was interesting to see the process if not the final product. Incredibly hot. Not surprising they shut down production in August. Got shown the Fine art section of their products. Some amazing – startling – impressive items. We were very taken by one beautiful blue egg shape cut into four to reveal layers within. However, despite the talents of the salesman he could not entice us to part with 4,000 euros (factory price including wrapping and transport)!! We did however part with some dosh in the Art Class section for a new pair of candle sticks. Then into the “souvenir section” but weren’t impressed.

According to Ari once we left his workshop we should have returned to Venice or gone on to Burano as there wasn’t much else to see on the island. Nothing except several other workshops and shops, some interesting buildings and a Sunday boat race. Then caught the vaporetto back to our station which gave us a good long trip back around the Arsenale, past San Michele (an island which is the cemetery for Venice and the Lido.

Sadly, our trip to Murano was marred by a serious loss……………after all his travels to Mordor, England and Germany Frodo lost his elven cloak! It fell off when we took his photo. I thought I’d put it in my backpack but…………. Guess I’ll just have to get in touch with the guys with the pointy ears and see if we can secure a replacement.

Once we got back, calmed Frodo down and unpacked wandered around to the area at the back of our hotel where the campo and church for this island are located. An amazing oasis of quite compared to what’s out the front! Had late lunch round there (question: why order a frutti del mare pizza when you scrape any of the frutti that look vaguely octopussi off the pizza?). Then a bit of a wander before our canal boat trip.

Boat trip set out from in front of the hotel, looped through some local canals and around to the start of the Grand Canal near the railway station. We did have an anxious moment five minutes after setting off when the boat stopped and tied up outside the police station. However, we were informed that the sound system had failed so we waited there for a replacement boat. I did note that when a policeman came out to see what was going on that there was a very large glass chandelier in the hallway. A tip for Judith Collins perhaps? It was a very cool trip along the canal. Some impressive buildings although many rather pock marked where the plaster has fallen off. We hadn’t realised that most buildings in Florence are built of wood and brick (for flexibility) and then have either a veneer of marble or a layer of marble slapped on. So of course the impact of salt water and movement starts undermining it as soon as it’s finished.
Now back at hotel, before contemplating dinner. Full day tomorrow San Giorgio, Academmia, Guggenheim, the place that makes kitset gondolas…..

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