La Serenissima #1

View from the front of our hotel

Got our little baggage train from the Florence hotel to the station and eventually onto the train. Left on time (well possible a couple of minutes late). We didn’t have the benefit of any entertainment of the sort we had on the trip from Rome to Florence. Instead we had three American women behind us who came on relatively late with numerous pieces of luggage and one of whom talked incessantly in the sort of loud nasal accent which can only serve to reinforce the prejudices of others (well me in particular).

Our hotel is the terracotta number in the middle

Arrived at Venice Santa Lucia station at 12:30 to clouds and rain. Managed to get ourselves onto a ferry – with just a little help from a local. The ferry terminal is right outside the hotel so straight off an into reception. We are on the Grand Canal looking straight across to San Giorgio Maggiore. The hotel has an interesting décor – the walls in our room are covered in gold brocade while the bedspread is the same pattern in red and gold.  Ju thinks it has the feel of a Victorian brothel. She must have had a interesting former life if she knows what that was like. Will get some photos taken and slap them up for comment. Thanks in advance Sarah!

We'll do our best to behave

Got sorted and had lunch in the restaurant at the front of the hotel to watch the world going by. Well that part of Tokyo that isn’t in Hawaii! Clearly Venice is a favourite.

Then watched around St Mark’s Square and scoped out the shops around the edge. There is some amazing glass on display. Some of the chandeliers which were jaw dropping (and that’s not necessarily a positive comment in all cases). Then roamed some surrounding streets catching some classic Venetian sights.

We have booked on a small group walking tour of the Basilica and other areas in the morning and one around the Doge’s Palace tomorrow afternoon. Think we’ll go out to Murano on Sunday. morning.

Warnings for men

Don't wrestle naked!

He stayed late at the pub one time too often!

Firenze #5

Council Chamber

Last day in Florence. Ju and Sare headed across the river and up the hill to the Annigoni museum and exhibition. Apparently it was worth the climb as it was"pretty speccie". Also the view over Florence was outstanding although someone had forgotten her camera! As for me I dropped some washing off at the laundry so I can head off to Venice all nice and clean. Then walked over to the Medici Chapel for a gander. When we were here in 2006 the main chapel was under restoration. It still is - just another section. Have a display of a series of paintings created in 1510 for the memorial service Cosimo de Medici ordered for Henri IV of France after his assassination.

Palazzo Vecchio

The ambled over to the Palazzo Vecchio to meet S and J. Operates now as city hall and has been the base of Florences government since the 1300s. The council chamber is seriously large and impressive - could give John Banks visions of grandeur. Some stunning ceilings. For some reason it wasn't possible to go up to the battlements. One of those random Italian things. Had lunch in a restaurant in the piazza so we could observe the comings and goings. The food was as ordinary as we expected for tourist central and the service indifferent. The look we were given when we didn't tip should have reduced us to three piles of ashes!

Think we'll redo the lounge when we get home

Then we split up to make independent ways back to the hotel. Final leather goods purchased. I wandered into Orsanmichele which was built as a grain sales centre but was turned into a church. Was mostly empty when I arrived but the peace was broken by a walking group - I think of the faithful. Assumption based on the way they all dashed up the front and started lighting candles. Can a good final wander around all the local streets. have decided that Florentine drivers are a greater risk to one's safety than those in Rome. At least in Rome the seem to recognise the significance of of pedestrain crossings! Sare left 4:30 and we got sorted ready to leave tomorrow.

Booked on 10:30 train tomorrow for Venice.

Family Photo

Firenze# 4

Siena

Having booked a car and driver for today Sare was deeply concerned that it would turn out to be Uncle Luigi from the pizzeria around the corner in his clapped out smart car. Well it turned out to be Luciano in his suit and tie driving his 6 seater people mover. Not only that he was a conservative driver (in the Italian sense – still drove with only one hand loosely on the wheel and with a tendency to straddle the line marking out the lanes on the autostrada. Obviously they’re indicative only).

So we headed out of Florence through one of the old medieval gates in the wall with its massive original gates in still in place. Headed down to Siena and spent the rest of the morning and early afternoon there. Surprisingly or not the Duomo there took most of our time. It’s massive. So worked our way through the museum, the observation point (sadly not up the campanile), the crypt, the baptistery, and then finally the Duomo itself. All built out of layers of dark green (almost black) and white marble. Has a bit of liquorice allsorts look about it but you soon forget that inside. September – October this year they have the entire floor uncovered and that has to be the most decorated floor we’ve seen in any church. Patterns and picture in precisely cut and detailed marble inlays. How can this have been done without laser cutting and computer design? Every other aspect of the building also covered in some form of decoration. In both the museo and the library off the duomo there were displays of stunning 13th century manuscripts. In the library you could take picture without flash. Don't think they do then justice with reflections of the glass. Still...

Frodo joins the Sienese green team - Contrade Oca

After that across to Santa Maria della Scala which started out in the 13^th century (or may be earlier as a pilgrims hospice and until recently was a hospital. It’s now being progressively restored and used as an exhibition centre. At present an exhibition about Michelangelo featuring letters and contracts he had written and which were kept by his great-nephew and handed down through the family. Wonder if any of my nephews are going to download this lot to keep for posterity? Then ambled our way around the Piazza del Campo down to the mercato (marketplace for those of you who aren’t multilingual like moi) for lunch.

Then on to San Gimignano. Well known to those of you who have watched Tea with Mussolini ( and yes so far the trains – well train – we have used ran on time). The towers are quite something. 14 of the 72 originals remain. Frodo and I scrambled up the Torre Grossa – 54 metres built in 1311, the women folk having opted to remain below considering the possible (but not completed) purchase of some Tuscan ceramics. Then a good nosey around the town and beyond the city walls. And of course the obligatory daily gelati intake. Apparently the passionfruit was divine. I was pretty happy with my Amaretto!

Ju didn't expect to see this sight in Italy

Then a drive through the Tuscan countryside back to Florence. Grapes. Olives. Hill top towns. And the occasional light industrial area.

Sare’s last evening with us so headed off to her favourite restaurant in Florence. Appears it the favourite of many others as well as it was fully booked. Oh well the one a few doors along did just as well. Gave us a complimentary limoncello each at the end of the meal. The girls decide want all of theirs. Oh well waste not want not.

Last full day in Florence tomorrow………

Firenze #3

Santa Maria Novella

The forecast said the day could be rainy so decided a focus on galleria and museo could be a good idea. Set out to 10 a.m. First stop our local church Santa Maria Novella for the purpose of viewing the Giotto Crucifix (c 1290!). Ahh …..since last trip things have changed. No longer can you wander in view what you like, take photos and go into the cloisters. Now you must pay, no photos at all and pay separately for the cloisters. And there are the flying squads on stroppy women ready to throw you out if you do get potted taking a photo – I got told in no uncertain terms to put my camera in my bag as we went in! Was worth paying the 3.5 euro entry. But didn’t pay the extra for the cloisters. Must get in touch with the Archbishop of Canterbury and suggest that the C of E should consider doing the same. Well at least make foreigners pay. We British could still get in free.

Inside Bagello

Scusi? No Photo? So sorry!

Then headed over to the Bagello. Interesting how close things are in Florence and how long it takes to get from point A to point B – always another previously undiscovered shop window to browse! The Bagello is an amazing place. Once was a palazzo, then went through a phase of being a prison. Now houses an incredible display of statuary, bronzes, religious art, silver, majolica ware and so on. Most of it from the Medici Grand Ducal collections which the last Medici bequeathed to the city.  Sensory overload at times.

Then lunch and on to the Palazzo Strozzi  for the Bronzino exhibition which opened last week. Bronzino worked at the court of the Medici round 1520 – 1560. A fantastic collection of religious art and secular portraiture. A lot of restoration and cleaning had been done prior to the exhibition so the colours looked fresh and alive.

JRR Tolkien meets CS Lewis

Nowhere mentioned in this post!

Then headed over to Oltrano. Time for the daily gelato. Mint and chocolate! Wanted to investigate St Frediano in Cestello – looks massive but only opens for evening mass. Then walked along to Santo Spirito. Another church in the style of St Lorenzo. Its point of difference was the painted wooden altar fronts all dating from the 15^th century. Then over to the Palazzo Pitti (not to visit) before heading back to hotel. Oltrano a very different area to other parts of Florence – certainly less tourist dominated and certainly no designer shops! Quite a few studios where artist, clothes designers are working on their own stuff.

Back to the hotel at six. 

Have booked a car and driver for tomorrow. Off to San Gimignano, Siena and other Tuscan highlights for the day (leave at 9 back at 6). 

Firenze #2

The Grand Old Duke of Tuscany

Last night had dinner across the Arno. Quite a cool restaurant in a cellar with curved brick roof. Oh how I enjoyed the Tuscan sausage cooked in white beans!

Scary fountain piece

This morning we headed off with general intention of going to Santa Croce. First call St Lorenzo. A really cool church. Quite plain but with 12 side altars each with a large painting ranging from 14th century through to 20th century (Annigoni). Sadly no photos allowed and the church comes equipped with a small army of reasonably fierce looking women armed with walkie talkies who pounced on anyone looking vaguely like taking a quick snap.

SS Annunziata

Next stop Santissima Annunziata. A total contrast to the previous church. Absolutely ornate including amazing hanging silver vessels - many of which are in need of a jolly good polish I must say. Julia and Sare were befriended by a local chap in pseudo clerical robes who told them about the church, other points of interest and then gave them the card for a local pizzeria (presumably his brother Luigi's).

Santa Croce Altar Piece

Finally got to Santa Croce. A lot of restoration work going on but still gorgeous. A number of celebrity tombs - Galileo, Michelangelo, Machiavelli, Dante, Rossini and Julie Clary. Photos of the damage done in the 1966 floods quite astounding.

Michelangelo's Tomb

Came out to very cool and rain - thank heavens for the 5 euro umbrella man! Lunch and then we went our separate ways wending our ways back to the hotel via various local streets.

Tonight Giorgio's for dinner. Ahh the joys of a meal of 2 courses plus side plus bread plus water plus wine for 12 euro each! Ravioli - great; Pork - great; Spinach - surprisingly great; Local red - ok force myself.

Firenze #1

Dateline Saturday.

Checked out of the Hotel, caught a cab to Termini (amazing what a Roman cab driver can cram into his little cab! Even if he does charge an extra two Euro for it.). Positioned ourselves under the departures board ready for notification of our platform. Were able to lend kindly kiwi assistance to an American woman who had just flown in and was on her way to meet her husband in Florence and who was slightly confused. Turns out she was on the same train as us. Possible just as well as it helped us focus on the detail otherwise might have caught the regular train to Florence not the Eurostar to Venice, stopping at Florence which we were actually booked on and which was much more comfortable and quicker than the other would have been.

Trip was barely Hour and half. Went very quickly as we were entertained by two American couples (well the women thereof) who had literally thrown themselves onto the train as the doors were closing. had been stuck in a queue for two hours to get the Eurostar passes validated.

5 - 10 minute walk from the Santa Maria Novella station to our hotel. Great place with good lobby, lounge, courtyards. Our room was also good except, we later discovered that the main plant for the air con was on the roof above us. Didn't stop us sleeping but it was irritating in what was otherwise a lovely quiet room. So have just asked if there was another room available and there was so have done a very rapid shift. This room doesn't have a view and has a smaller bathroom so suspect they don't think its as good but its gloriously quiet.

Back to yesterday. Got sorted, went walking around - down to Duomo, along the Arno, over the Ponte Vecchio, back through the markets. Re-familiarisation tour. Dined in the hotel restaurant. Yum again.

This morning headed back over towards the Duomo. I climbed up the Campanile. Great views. The two way traffic on the narrow winding stairs on the last section was interesting - clearly the 15 century architecvts didn't contemplate mass tourism and large Germans and Americans. It should be noted that the young Englishman who took the photo of me and Frodo didn't seem to think it odd at all. Unlike the Japanese woman who fell about laughing when she saw me taking a photo of him part way up. says it all really.

Then through the baptistry - more stunning mosaics - am contemplating looking for a mosaic icon to go with the crucifix I bought at the Vatican. J getting worried. Then through the Duomo museum which we had completely missed last visit. Great building with a lot of original pieces which have been removed for preservation.

Again back through the markets to the hotel. Acquired a replacement for my man bag which is beginning to fray and disintegrate. Original synthetic leather and other man made fibres. New one total leather.

Then the room change. Julia's sister Sarah has just arrived to join us. Florence might never be the same!

Frodo Admires........

some of the examples of fine Italian craft work from Castel Romana. Apparently by some old chaps called, Valentino, Pollini and Cavalli!

Guess Who?

So - Julia thinks that this should be part of a series. Watch this space!!! Geoff you may be called on

Rome #6 and Last from the Eternal City

 Last day in Rome

Julia contemplates heaven

 I decided that first up I’d head over to the Mamertine Prison. It was closed for lunch the other day when I first tried. Got there and discovered that it is now operated by the people to operate the Roma Cristiana tours and you have to wait for a group, have the full lengthy guided and the focus seemed to be on the life of the blessed St Peter so decided not to bother. Back to the hotel and did a trial pack. Then we headed over to Trastevere. Went past the Teatre di Marcello and the Portico Ottavia which are fascinating. They're just starting to restore and excavate so will be a must see next time!!

The Trastevere is a really amazing area. Had a good walk around the little streets and local museum. Had lunch in a local restaurant – beautiful buttery ravioli, olives and zucchini flowers.

How much for a place hear?

The visited Santa Maria de Trastevere. Another great church. Was intrigued to find a chapel decorated with a version of the English royal coat of arms. Found later that it was the base for Henry Duke of York, son of the Old Pretender and a Cardinal. Just shows we were right to kick the Stuarts out!

Frodo's last meal in Roma

After the church straight to the local ice cream shop. Oh goodness me the caffe gelato was to die for. So caffe. Combined with crème caramel it was all delicious!!

Back to the hotel for a bit of a siesta then out for last meal. Stopped off at the Trevi fountain. Chucked the compulsory three coins in the fountain. It’s a good custom to have established – if everyone throws in 50 cents they’ll make a mint! Found a place between the fountain and the Pantheon. Delicious food and the couple at the next table were from New Plymouth!

Have had a fantastic time in Rome. Loved the walking around and soaking up the environment and the age of the place.

Now onto Florence!